Sunday, March 11, 2012

FLORENCE, ITALY--2nd half of 11th Day

FLORENCE, ITALY--


Located in central Italy, Florence is the capital city of Tuscany.  The city lies along the Arno River surrounded by gentle hills and is known for its history and importance in the Middle Ages, and in the Renaissance, especially for its art and architecture.  


A center of medieval European trade and finance, the city is often considered the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance and was long ruled by the Medici family.  In the 15th century, Italian art and culture began to flourish again.  Thanks to writers like Dante, Petrarca and Machiavelli, the Italian language was born, and thanks to the operas of artists like Botticelli, Michelangelo, Donatello, Brunelleschi and many others, Florence has become one of the artistic capitals of the world.  The "Historic Center" was declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO in 1982.


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After leaving Pisa, we drove to Florence, a distance of about 45 miles.   While on our bus ride, we passed vast marble quarries, which are carved right into the mountains.  No wonder Italy had so many famous sculptors!  They had unlimited art (marble) supplies close at hand.

The gorgeous Tuscan countryside is a combination of fertile valleys and sloping green hills.  Many painters over the centuries have captured this beauty, especially with Cypress trees that thrive in the Mediterranean climate.  We passed by miles and miles of beautiful plant nurseries.  

On our way to the city center--
Florence's top sights and attractions are easy to explore on foot as most are found in the compact historic center.

Luxury boutiques along the streets--
Florence is regarded by some as the birthplace and earliest center of the modern (post WWII) fashion industry in Italy.  

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Il Duomo - Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore-


 Florence's cathedral, built between 1296 and 1436, is one of the largest cathedrals in the world holding 20,000 people.  Its imposing dome still dominates the historic center of the city.

From left to right--Baptistry, cathedral, dome and bell tower

The original facade was dismantled in 1587-1588 and a new facade was completed in 1887, which is entirely dedicated to the Mother of Christ.

The three huge bronze doors date from 1899 to 1903.  They are adorned with scenes from the life of the Madonna.

    Its exterior, made of green, pink and white marble, has several elaborate doors and interesting statues.  

On the facade is a series of niches with the 12 Apostles on either side of the Madonna with Child.


Closer view of Madonna with Child and some of the apostles.

The Campanile (bell tower) was completed in 1359. 


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BAPTISTERY--
The eight-sided Baptistery is one of Florence's oldest buildings and predates the cathedral (1059-1128).  It was constructed on top of Roman foundations, possibly as early as in the sixth century.  At the end of the 19th century, all Catholic Florentines were baptized here.

The white and green marble cladding the exterior was added around the 13th century.  The facade was so popular that it became a model for many other baptistery and church facades in Tuscany.

Ghiberti completed these doors in 1452 after laboring 50 years, with reliefs depicting scenes from the Bible.  The doors were described by Michelangelo as "the Gates of Paradise."
The doors are considered the first renaissance artwork, as they departed from the prevailing art style by using perspective and showing realistic depictions of humans and their environment. The original panels are now in the Duomo Works Museum.


This is the Jacob and Esau Panel

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Piazza della Repubblica--


This square stands where the Roman forum used to be several centuries ago.  The new piazza was officially inaugurated in 1890.

The monumental arch was completed in 1895 bearing the inscription, "The old city center from its past squalor was restored to a new life."  The square quickly became surrounded by luxurious hotels and cafes, many of which are still around today. 


This is the only merry-go-round in Florence, even though they were developed in Italy, especially by the Medici Grand-Dukes.

Gilli Cafe--
We ate quick "stand-up" sandwiches (you save quite a bit of money for lunch is you don't sit at a table) in the fascinating atmosphere of Gilli's over 200-years of history (the plate on the wall states, "1733.")  

We felt like we were going back in time to the early 1900s with the decorations of ivory-colored walls, Murano lamps, frescoed ceilings, and arches.

The beautifully decorated street window that beckoned us in.

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ORSANMICHELE--


Orsanmichele was built in 1337 as a grain market.  It replaced an earlier grain market which was destroyed by fire in 1304.  Shortly after the new building was completed, miraculous appearances of the Madonna were reported.  Even more miraculous, a painting appeared on one of the pillars in the grain market.  A tabernacle, completed in 1359, was built to protect it.  The miracles started to attract pilgrims so eventually, in 1380, it was decided to move the market elsewhere and transform the marketplace into a church.  


Patron saints of various trade guilds appear as niche carvings.

The ones now visible in the niches are replicas.  The original statues can be seen in the museum on the upper floors.


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PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA--


Florence's most famous square is in the heart of the historic center and a free open-air sculpture exhibit.  


VECCHIO PALACE (OLD PALACE)--
Palazzo Vecchio is the town hall of the city.  The massive fortress-palace was constructed in the late 13th/early 14th century in order to house the government offices for the newly formed Florentine Republic.  The ruling Medici family used this building as a home until a palace was built on the bank of the Arno River.  Today, this building still contains the office of Florence's mayor and city council, but most of the building is now a museum.

The Old Palace with its huge clock tower is one of the architecturally interesting buildings in the city.

An exact copy of Michelangelo's famous "David" statue stands in front of Palazzo vecchio (Old Palace)

Michelangelo completed "David" in 1504 which was placed in Piazza della Signoria.  However, it was moved to the Acadamia Gallery in 1873 after the Florentines recognized that the sculpture was suffering from exposure to the elements.  

This impressive statue of the man who killed Goliath was sculpted when Michelangelo was only 29 years old!

The carved statue of Bandinelli's Hercules and Cacus (1525-1534) stands opposite Michelangelo's "David."  Bandinelli tried to outdo Michelangelo but came off second best.

"Carriage for hire" in front of Palazzo Vecchio and the white marble Statue of Neptune built around 1575.

The Neptune figure was meant to be an allusion to the dominion of the Florentines over the sea.  The figure stands on a high pedestal in the middle of an octagonal fountain.

The perimeter is decorated with bronze river gods, laughing satyrs and marble sea-horses emerging from the water.  The original statue of Neptune now stands in the National Museum.  


It is interesting that the fountain was used as a washbasin for laundry at the end of the 16th century.

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LOGGIA DEI LANZI--
The Loggia dei Lanzi is a beautiful arched gallery that was built in the 14th century at the Piazza della Signoria right in front of the Palazzo Vecchio.  The purpose of the gallery was to shield dignitaries from the elements during ceremonies, public meetings and events.  Today...

...it houses a number of statues, the most notable--"Perseus with the Head of Medusa" by Cellini (1554)

All of the statues were carved in the 1500s and only a couple are copies.  This was truly an open-air museum!

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UFFIZI GALLERY--
On another corner in the square is the Uffizi Gallery, which boasts the world's largest collection of Renaissance art, largely collected by members of the Medici family.   The gallery (1580) was built to house government administration offices for the Grand Duke Medici, but now has an enormous collection of ancient sculptures and of paintings from the 13th to the 19th centuries.  


We didn't have time to visit this museum--another time for sure!!!  Among the most famous works housed here are:  The Birth of Venus by Botticelli; The Adoration of the Magi by DaVinci; and The Holy Family by Michelangelo.  I would have loved to have seen those pieces of art!!

Vasariano Corridor--
This corridor connected the Old Palace with the government offices (Uffizi) with the new palace (Pitti) across the river, so that the Medici rulers would not have to go outside when walking from one building to another.  The passage also crossed over the Arno River on top of the shops on the Ponte Vecchio bridge.

Modern-day "live statues" outside the gallery

Hey, everyone has to make a buck, right?!

The beautiful Arno River that passes through Florence.

Ponte Vecchio--
Florence's "Old Bridge" was built in 1345 as the first bridge across the Arno River, and is the only surviving bridge from Florence's medieval days (others were destroyed in WWII).
In the picture below, you can see the continuing passageway above the shops that was used by the Medici rulers and the jagged line of shops extending over the Arno River. 

Ponte Vecchio is well-known for its jewelry shops (mostly gold).  The bridge originally was a meat market, but was moved to avoid its smell reaching into the Medici's walkway above.

Some of the shops have been owned by the same family for over 300 years.

The next few pictures are taken with us on the famous bridge.



Bust of Benvenuto Cellini located on the bridge.  He was an Italian goldsmith (fitting for the Bridge of Gold), sculptor, painter, soldier and musician, whose famous "Perseus with the Head of Medusa" statue is shown in this blog in the open air museum.

Another view of Florence and the Arno River on the other side of the bridge.



After walking part of the way across the bridge, we returned to the street to walk to another amazing church.
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SANTA CROCE (Basilica of the Holy Cross)--


This basilica, the largest Franciscan church in the world, was rebuilt for the Franciscan order in 1294.  The church's most notable features are its 16 chapels, many of them decorated with frescoes by Giotto, and its tombs.

The exterior is covered with a marble facade added in 1863. 


A Jewish archiect designed the church's 19th century facade, working a prominent Star of David into the top of the composition. 

Dante's (beloved poet of Florence whose empty tomb is located inside) statue outside Santa Croce.

We had to take a picture of this 1954 Ferrari that was exhibited in a display case located in the square.  Ferrari's are actually works of art themselves in their design and drivability as race and sports cars.

Interior of church--
Like I said earlier, Santa Croce is known for its 16 chapels decorated with frescoes.  Unfortunately, there was a large restoration project going on and the beautiful frescoes were covered by scaffolding (I took three pictures from the internet that show what we missed!).  However, we did get to visit the rest of the amazing interior and the burial monuments.


Main Altar


Stained glass and frescoes


FAMOUS TOMBS--
The Basilica became popular with Florentines as a place of worship and patronage, AND for 500 years it became customary for greatly honored Florentines to be buried or commemorated here (276 are located on the floor alone).  


Some very famous Italians with tombs or memorials were:
Galileo, Michelangelo, Dante, Machiavelli and Rossini--with monuments to each man.  These are some of the tombs we saw and took pictures of:
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Michelangelo's Tomb--
The tomb was created by Vasari in 1564. 

 Surrounding the bust of Michelangelo are three sculptures depicting his influence in the art world. 

From left to right, the sculptures represent painting, sculpture and architecture.

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Galileo's Tomb (1564-1642)--
Galileo (Father of modern physics and science) was an Italian Physicist, mathematician, astronomer, and philosopher born in Pisa who played a major role in the Scientific Revolution.


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Machiavelli's Tomb (1469-1527)--
Machiavelli (Father of modern political theory) was an Italian historian, philosopher, humanist and writer who was born and also died in Florence during the Renaissance.



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Dante's Tomb (1265-1321)--actually a memorial--
Dante (born in Florence--was their beloved poet) was exiled from Florence and died in Ravenna in 1321.  Because of his great involvement in a political party that lost control, he was exiled from the city for life.  Eventually Florence came to regret Dante's exile and the city made repeated requests for the return of his remains.  A tomb was built for him in 1829, but has been empty ever since.

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Giovanni Battista Niccolini (Italian Playwright, 1782-1861)--


This funerary monument is decorated with the original precursor to the Statue of Liberty by Pio Fedi.   The Statue of Liberty, whose official name is "Liberty Enlightening the World," represents the liberty of poetry and thus the freedom of art and creative genius in general.  In her left hand, Lady Liberty holds a lyre and a crown of laurel, and in her right hand she holds the remnants of a broken chain.


Frederic Auguste Bartholdi, creator of New York's Statue of Liberty, lived in Florence in 1870.  This was the year that Fedi was creating the funerary monument of Niccolini, which was placed in Santa Croce and Bartholdi's statue was placed in New York Harbor seven years later--in 1887.  This statue in Santa Croce has a much more feminine form than our Lady Liberty in America.

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 Exterior courtyard/Cloister to convent--

Remember that a cloister is a rectangular open space surrounded by covered walks or open galleries, with open arcades on the inner side, running along the walls of buildings.  A cloister effectively separates the world of the monks.

A monument to Florence Nightingale (who laid the foundation of professional nursing) stands in the cloister, in the city in which she was born and after which she was named.

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As we were leaving Florence, we took the following three pictures of buildings and an arch showing amazing architectural design through our bus window:


A triumphal arch (created in the 19th century) in the northernmost point of the Historic Center.  Another older arch (1738) was erected to celebrate the arrival of the Lorena dynasty in Florence.

Fun picture I took with my little "point-and-shoot" camera on our return to the ship with the reflection of fall trees in the lake in the background and the blurred tree in the front.

Wow!  My art history mind is in overload, as I'm sure yours is also after having read this! What a beautiful city with amazing artwork in every aspect.  It was unbelievable to comprehend how so many brilliant and talented people lived in the same, small vicinity when, just a short time before, the world was in the Dark Ages!  We saw so much but need to return someday, just like we felt after having visited Rome!  


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Tomorrow is our last stop of our cruise, MARSEILLES, 
FRANCE.  However, we actually docked in Toulon, France, because of high winds in the Marseilles' port.  This turned out to be an advantage for us because we drove an extra hour either way from Toulon to Marseilles and took in the beautiful countryside of Southern France.


1 comment:

Heather Williams said...

Momma mia, thank you for so many different angles of the "David" ;)